ANSWER: OLD VS. NEW MILK GLASS

QUESTION: Hi. I was at some yard sales this past weekend and came up with another question for you. How can you tell the difference between authentic milk glass and just plain white glass? I think many floral arrangements used to come with this less expensive white glass. I've also noticed that some milk glass is marked "hoosier glass". Can you tell me which is worth collecting?
Thanks lp

MARYANSWER: Hi LP.
It is hard to say what is considered authentic milk glass. Milk glass is named for its color, made by a process which achieves a milky white glass. Milk glass has actually been around for centuries. It is made from a mixture of over 50% sand or now, silica, with chemicals and minerals being added to the hot glass mixture. Older companies also used bone ash. Most of what is collected today is glass from the late 1800s to the carnival and "newer" milk glass of the 1950s. These milk glass pieces can garner high values, primarily dependent on the pattern and rarity. You will also find some of the Fenton milk glass from the 1970s is already widely collected and demanding high prices.

Basically the differences you will see in older and newer milk glass is the color and transparency of the glass. As different chemicals and minerals became available, the process of making milk glass was modified and so was its look. The older milk glass has a transparency; when held up to a light, it will shine through, while the newer milk glass is opaque. Pure white is the most common type of milk glass but especially in older depression milk glass you will find some tinted with a touch of color, blue being the most popular.

To better explain the differences, I have included some examples from http://www.maryantiques.com/. The plates were made from 1930 - 1936 by MacBeth Evans Glass Company in the American Sweetheart pattern. They called this transparent white milk glass color Monax, one has a blue iridescence. Indiana Glass marketed most of its milk glass in the 1950s. An example is the Orange Blossom Pattern snack set. The Fenton Company, still a popular glass maker, manufactured these hobnail pattern milk glass salt & pepper shakers in the 1970s and they are already highly collectible. Note that this milk glass is opaque.

Though it is rarely marked, some of the other US companies producing milk glass during the depression era through to the 1950s included Duncan Glass, Westmoreland Glass Company, L.E. Smith Glass Company, Fostoria, Hazel Atlas, Federal Glass, Anchor Hocking, Indiana Glass, Fostoria, McKee. In France, Vallerysthal was the most noted manufacturer of older milk glass.

Many companies manufactured milk glass and almost everything was made in milk glass, vases, cups, etc. In fact it is still being manufactured and some of the most collectible pieces are being reproduced today. Some reproductions of older milk glass patterns look convincing. Another way to distinguish older milk glass apart from newer or reproduction milk glass is the mold marks. The mold lines in older glass are usually more defined and sharper than on the reproductions.

When talking about milk glass you will hear other terms mentioned such as Opal Ware, Opal Glass, Opaline Glass, Custard Glass, Lattacino. Opalware is believed to be the term first used to describe milk glass. Some call the blue and colored glass made in France during the late 1800s, colored milk glass, though it most widely known as, Opaline Glass (see the blue egg shape jar). A clearer almost translucent white glass also popular in the Victorian era is called Opal Glass (vase with candelabra). Then there is custard glass, which is actually an opaque custard look glass which is never pure white. Latticino is the term for milk glass threads in blown art glass, most popular in the 1960s.

From the information I gathered, Hoosier Glass is widely mistaken with the Hoosier Manufacturing Company which was founded in 1899. [They were the first to manufacture the popular kitchen cabinets that their competitors soon copied and are almost all now referred to as Hoosier Cabinets. These cabinets were available to buyers with optional glass sets which usually included canisters, spice sets, and sometimes more, though never vases. Most glass for these Hoosier Cabinets was manufactured between the early 1900s and around 1940 by Sneath Manufacturing Company. By the way, a wonderful site to reference this type of glass is www.towbees.com.]

You will find the Hoosier name and a pattern or production number on many vases, as this glass company, similar to the EO Brody company distributed many floral holders to florists. Though, since the late 1950s, EO Brody has been a distributor of vases, etc., while Hoosier was actually a manufacturer of glass vases, floral holders. Hoosier Glass pieces are mainly clear, green, and milk glass, and are not quite as common as those marked, EO Brody. General opinion is that Hoosier glass vases are a bit better quality.

The background on Hoosier Glass is somewhat unclear: Hoosier Glass is owned by Syndicate Sales Inc. (Indiana Corporation), and is a manufacturer of, “holders for flowers; namely, vases for receiving floral arrangements.” The name was first trademarked in 1979. The trademark was renewed in 1993; yet in a quick search, I could find no web based evidence of the Indiana based Glass vase business today. Currently, the market value of Hoosier Glass vases ranges from about $5 - $15 a vase. There is a small society of Hoosier Glass collectors and it is expected to be valued a bit higher in the future.

As far as what is worth collecting ... If you are collecting for investment, look for the older more fragile milk glass by the well-known companies mentioned above. Though, I truly believe its worth collecting any piece ... if you really like it!! Besides, almost anything bought from a garage sale is worth more, or at the least, what you paid! Another collecting trend to note, is that some of the more widely produced items no one thought worth collecting are now some of the rarer antiques.
As a collector of milk glass you may also want to know about the Milk Glass Collectors Society, http://www.nmgcs.org/
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ANSWER: IDENTIFYING MARK & PIECES

QUESTION: Thank you for your response to my Ask Yahoo question. The link you suggested was one I've checked and it didn't help. Since you invited me to ask you directly, here it is. Concerning antiques, my mystery ceramic mark is an arrow crossed with a sword, beneath is an L in script? The mark is in blue and the number, 6794 is below that. It's on the bottom of a sugar and creamer set, very elaborately decorated with flowers and leaves. The top edges of the pieces are sawtooth on both sides with goldleaf.
The last two pictures are also something I'm puzzled about…I think it's a sugar spooner, fairly hefty. On the bottom it says, The Henry Bruml Co. curved over an XIV, then a level New York...all of this engraved in the center of the bottom of the container.
Thanks so much for your help.
Maxine Booth

MARYANSWER:
Hi Maxine. As far as your porcelain sugar & creamer, they are pretty, but not very old. The pattern is transfer, note the mismatched seam in the pattern. These pieces are the Paisley Fantazia pattern sugar & creamer made by or imported by, Lefton in the 1970s. The mark on your item, the blue cursive L and the crossed sword & arrow mark is the 1971 trademark used by Lefton. There was most likely also a paper sticker on them at one time. The number is a production or pattern number. A cup & saucer in this pattern recently sold for $35.
The George Lefton Company was founded in Illinois in 1940 by George Lefton, a Hungarian Immigrant and fine porcelain collector. Lefton imports a wide variety of porcelain, glass and other products into the United States mostly from Japan.

Regarding your other photos, first it is a covered sugar. The Henry Bruml Company was an Advertising Novelty Company at 42 Warren Street, New York. Most of their pieces were found in and marked with the names of hotels, pharmacies, etc. Yours is a bit unusual because it does not have an advertising name. It may have been a restaurant piece. Most pieces marked Bruml are silver plate, so I assume yours is also. In a quick search, the only registered date I could find for Henry Bruml Company was 1930; they may have been in business for years before and after. From the looks of the photograph, the design of your piece fits in the 1920s-1930s art nouveau period. Most Bruml pieces sell within the $20-30 range.

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ANSWER: LIQUIDATING AN ESTATE

Another question maryanswered on a different Q&A...

QUESTION: How can I liquidate my mother's estate?

MARYANSWER: I am sure your Mom would have wanted you to benefit from her collections. If you live within 90 miles of New York City we handle estate liquidation http://www.maryantiques.com. If not I am sure there is a local service similar to what we offer, search , search, search....As others suggested, you might try a local auction house, they will auction entire house contents or entire collections. They will usually come to the house and evalulate it, no lugging... they take a commission, well worth it --they publicize your items and I agree, since their commission is based on the sale of your item, they work to sell it. Of course, if your items do not sell, you do have to bring them home yourself, but most will sell! Try http://www.auctionzip.com/cgi-bin/auctio... they list local auctions. Antique dealers will most likely offer you 30% or less of the items value. You might also try consigning at local shops too. Hope I've helped!

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ANSWER: IDENTIFYING A SILVER HALLMARK - WB

QUESTION: I would like to identify the hallmark on an antiques silver plated gravy boat with 5 hallmarks, WB & Co S EPNS?


MARYANSWER: Without a photo it is hard to tell. WB or W.B. is also the mark for William Brearley - 1863 - 1872. W.B & Co is the mark for William Briggs & Co - 1875 - 1922. You would have to compare your mark to items made by all of these companies to be certain. There are wonderful silver and silverplate hallmark sites out there. These have photos of many makers marks, http://www.silvercollection.it and www.925-1000.com also Abes Silver (he charges a $3.00 fee - well worth it if you need to research!) The Silver Forum is also a valuable tool for learning about and researching silver / plate hallmarks. We have more resource links at http://www.maryantiques.com - resources & links page.

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ANSWER - CLEANING ANTIQUE GLASS

Linda P said...
wow -- I found your answer about cut vs. pressed glass really informative. Now I'll have to check all my vintage glass to sort out what's what.

QUESTION:
Does anyone know how to remove scale or lime deposits from glass vases? I have one square piece that must have been used as an aquarium and I can't get the scale out of it. Thanks for any suggestions!


MARYANSWER:
Thanks Linda P!
Chemicals in water causes lime scale buildup in glass... Your vase might have been used as an aquarium, it may have been in the ocean, under the kitchen sink or just used to hold flowers!! Any water residue may cause buildup: Glass must be cleaned and dried thoroughly to preserve its luster.

A good scrubbing with a soft brush and warm soapy water will remove most dirt, but is usually ineffective in removing scale stains. There are professionals whom clean antique glass. I have a few tricks you might want to try first.

Before we get started, a few don'ts ... First, never use hot water or any extreme temperature, you may crack the glass. Never scrub flint, flashed or stain glass, you will rub the finish off. To avoid scratching your glass, do not use abrasives. Do use a soft bristle brush which will not scratch your glass. Keep in mind, wet glass is slippery, wet soapy glass is an accident waiting to happen! Try wearing planter gloves with rubber grips and wash glass carefully over a soft plastic tub or foam liner in the sink.

One of the first things I try on scaled glass is Efferdent Denture cleaner (this also works on some porcelain stains...another post!) Follow the directions, let it sit. Then, use a soft brush or cloth and gently scrub the remaining lime away. From your vase description, you may have to try this more than once. Glass stovestop polishing creme with a soft brush may also work. Some use Lime Away or other bathroom lime remover. In extreme cases the chemical, muriatic acid will almost always work. If you chose this method to remove the scale, be sure to follow the directions and read all cautions on the label; wear heavy protective gloves and a mask to protect yourself from harmful fumes. Most chemicals do not mix with water and two chemicals may be dangerous if mixed together, so be sure your vase is clean and dry beforehand.

I glanced through a 1912 issue of The Houswife offered at maryantiques.com and found what could literally be called an, "old wives tale" ... A copper penny with a little white vinegar and some good but careful shakes. Of course, Bon Ami was the most advertised cleaner of that era. A newer tale ... rinse it with some Coca Cola: Another is to soak it with bicarbonate of soda /antacid. I have not experimented with these methods yet.

Remember to wash and dry your vase thoroughly after any treatment. Keep in mind, water residue .... and ceramic tile floors, are potentially damaging to your glass! Oh, for those who aren't sure … antique glass is not a good place to store your fish!

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ANSWER - Cut vs. Pressed Glass

QUESTION: Hi.
I have a question about identifying glass. How can you tell if a piece is cut or pressed glass and which is worth more?

Thanks for the help.

Linda

PS -- Great site by the way!

MARYANSWER:

Many people are confused about the difference between cut and pressed glass!

Cut glass is usually higher quality glass. Held to the light you will see a refraction of light that breaks into a prism color effect. However, there were some pieces of pressed glass that were very high quality and made to imitate cut glass. They may be mistaken for cut glass at first, but close inspection will reveal the difference…

Pressed glass is also sometimes referred to as Pattern glass, as it was a method that could be used to manufacture many pieces in the same style (pattern) in various colors. Pressed glass has the pattern pressed into the glass when it is molded. Pressed or Pattern glass will nearly always show the mold marks, a very thin raised line caused by glass filling the very small gap where the mold parts come together. Most pressed glass were made with three or four part molds, few were two. In other words, if you see two to four - or any - thin raised lines on your piece, it is pressed or pattern glass. Look closely, some pressed glass may have the mold mark disguised by part of the pattern.

Cut glass has the pattern cut after the basic shape has been molded. Cut glass will not show any mold marks, as they are cut away or polished off during the process of cutting the pattern.
Generally, even on the small intricate patterns, cut glass will have very well defined patterns, whereas pressed glass nearly always has a slight blurring on the details.
When you run your fingers over pressed or pattern glass the edges feel rounded. The feel of cut glass is sharper, as the glass was actually cut with a wheel to make the pattern.

As far as value, though cut tends to be slightly higher, there are significant collectors of each. As always, the maker, quality and demand determine the value!

Other Glass Notes:
EAPG is Early American Pattern Glass. EAPG period was about 1850 to 1915. Before that, most glass was not grouped into families with shared design (known as a pattern!). EAPG implies that the item belongs to one family or pattern. You can search for matching patterns online using maryantiques resources and links page

ABC is American Brilliant Cut glass. ABC is usually referred to as ABP, American Brilliant Period was about 1875-80 to 1920.

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ANSWER - Using Your Senses! - Testing Bakelite…

QUESTION: I just bought a bracelet and was told it is bakelite. How can I tell if it really is? Is there a test?

MARYANSWER:

Using Your Senses! - Testing Bakelite…

Many recommend using a hot needle or hot water to test items. Others use Dow Scrubbing Bubbles and Formula 409 for testing Bakelite.

Unless you really don’t care about your item maryantiques does not recommend these methods!!

A hot needle test will leave a hole or a tunnel if your item is plastic. Hot water may destroy an item made from celluloid. A little Dow Scrubbing Bubbles or Formula 409 rubbed on the item may determine if item is Bakelite (the rubbing cloth will turn yellow). However, if it is ivory or bone it may stain it. Also, you must make sure to wash all of the chemicals off and dry your item thoroughly to ensure no damage is done to your item.

In fact, other than using your senses … sight, hearing, touch, smell … there are no safe methods of testing Bakelite.

Use your sense of sight. A Bakelite item may be cast, laminated, inlaid, carved, and tinted almost any color of the rainbow. Bakelite can be transparent, translucent, or opaque. Bakelite colors, however, do change with age. The surface color tends to darken, and a patina develops. For instance, white Bakelite may become creamy ivory or a light yellow color. Very fine pits and scratches are also produced with wear.

Use your sense of touch. Feel the item. Bakelite tends to be heavy. It is heavier then plastic, celluloid and most of other similar materials. It is dense, once it has been heated and formed, it can not be melted down and re-formed.

Use your sense of hearing. When two pieces of Bakelite are tapped together they make a distinctive deep clacking noise, later plastics produce a high pitched clicking noise.

Use your sense of smell. Rub the item aggressively with a finger until it gets hot. Smell your item or finger. If it is Bakelite, you’ll notice an odor….an unforgettable carbolic acid smell.

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A little about me...

At twelve I picked up my first antique….a gorgeous Victorian hall chair. My neighbors were throwing it out and I begged my parents to let me have it! From that time, the obsession took over. I began taking my allowance to garage sales, asking relatives and neighbors for items they deemed old and I felt were treasures. Then I bought at auctions, took vacations just to go antiquing…The innocent childhood hobby had become an obsession…a passion. As the years went on, I not only acquired knowledge but accumulated quite a collection. A wide variety of items from every era gone by.

This year I am pleased to announce the opening of maryantiques.com.

And with that comes this blog…

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